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|Wood Stain Test, |
Pine (fir) is a softwood and doesn't accept stain well. Recommended is 'pre-conditioning' treatment. I ran a test on some scrap 1x6 pieces to see how much difference there really is. Untreated with stain on the left ... treated then stain on the right. BIG difference! Everything after that got the pre-treatment.
|Ship's Wheel Parts, April 2,2010|
All the raw parts, 20 of them, assembled ready for gluing, stain and finish. This one was made with red oak. I had so much fun and learned so much, I think I will build another one.
|Wheel Finished, April 14, 2010|
Well, I finished the wheel but I'm not happy with it. I got too aggressive with the router and sanding. I think I will have to make another one just to make a good showing for myself. The next one will be built with pine (fir). Then maybe I will do another with oak.
|New Pine Wheel, April, 16, 2010|
I made a second wheel in pine. It looks a but more authentic and I like the lighter stain. It's Minwax, Golden Pecan. I treated the wood with a conditioner first to get the stain to apply evenly.
|Work Table, April 19,2010|
My work horse table. I rescued it from a business closing. See below for a comment about the "dumptser table." These are just a few of the power tools I use frequently. The chop saw jig I made to allow me to make consistent repeatable cuts and keep sawdust out of the work.
|Rudder Parts, April, 19, 2010|
Rudder parts cut and ready for assembly. It seems no matter how hard I try, left and right sides don't match quite right.
|Rudder Assembled, April 19,2010|
These are the rudder parts assemble for fit. On the inside of the box housing are several small sticks for spacing of the two sides. This whole assembly is bolted with eye-bolts to the back of the boat.
|Rudder Finished, April 25,2010|
The rudder and box are assembled, glued and painted with Rust-Oleum brand 'top side' paint. I like how smooth this paint finishes. Below are the finished port hole exterior frames.